DIY Leather Director’s Bench Building Plans

 

 

Hi everyone, I’m Elisha from Pneumatic Addict and I’m back to share another set of building plans with you! 

 

I’ve always believed an entry way need a bench. Somewhere to sit and take your shoes off when you get home, or for guests to set their purses. I several weeks ago I built an Easy DIY Industrial Bench and proudly placed it in my entryway. It didn’t take long for my boys to discover the rolling casters and turn the bench into a battering ram. The industrial bench was quickly moved to my bedroom and I started working on a second idea. 

 

I fell in love with the Director’s Bench from CB2, but there was absolutely no way I wad going to pay $450 plus shipping for a piece of occasional furniture. I dug out some leftover maple from my Floating Console Table, and sketched up some plans. 

 

 

 

My boards were slightly thinner than typical 2 x 2’s, but you will get an almost identical look with off the shelf lumber. 

 

How to Build a Leather Director’s Bench
by Elisha from Pneumatic Addict  

Click Here to Get a Free Printable Version of This Building Plan

Materials List:

• (4) 2 x 2 boards (hardwood or “select pine”)
• (1) 54″ x 27″ – piece of leather or upholstery weight “faux leather”
• (9) yards of 1-1/2″ wide – woven cotton webbing (found in the trim section of the fabric store)
• (4) 3″ wood screws
• (8) 2″ wood screws
• wood glue
• 1/2″ heavy duty staples
• 3/32″ drill bit
• 3/8″ forstner bit
• 3/8″ flat top wood plugs
• miter saw or circular saw
• cordless drill
• face clamps
• heavy duty staple gun

Cut list:

• (2) 2 x 2 @ 42″
• (1) 2 x 2 @ 35-3/4″
• (4) 2 x 2 cut at 45 degrees (parallel) on both ends @ 25-1/2″ (long end to long end)
• (1) piece of leather or “faux leather” @ approx. 42″ x 26″
• (12) pieces of woven cotton webbing @ approx. 26″

 

Step 1

The wood frame is very simple to build with the exception of one pair of half lap joints. Start by cutting four cross pieces at 25-1/2″ in length, square on both ends. Measure 12″ from each end, giving you a 1-1/2″ section in the middle. Measure half the depth of your board and mark the sides. You can remove the middle section a number of ways. I used a table saw, making several passes, but you could use a router or even a sharp chisel. 

 

 

 

 

Once the half lap notches are cut, miter the ends of the cross pieces parallel directions, like the diagram above. 

 

Step 2

Apply glue to all three sides of the notches, and join two end pieces together. Repeat with the remaining two cross pieces, creating two X’s. 

 

Clamp the boards tightly together and allow the glue to dry fully. 

 

 

 

Step 3

Once the end pieces are dry, you can connect them together with the 35-3/4″ long center rail. Pre-drill two 3/32″ holes through the center of each X, and into the end of the center rail. Use a 3/8″ forstner bit to counter-sink the holes 3/8″ deep. Apply glue to the joints and connect the end pieces to the center rail using 3″, #8 wood screws. 

 

 

 

Apply a small amount of glue in the screw holes and tap a wood plug in each hole. Once the glue is dry, use a flush cut hand saw to cut off any of the plug sticking up past the surface, or use an electric sander to smooth it down. 

 

 

 

Step 4

Center a 42″ top rail on each side of the frame, creating a 2″ overhang on each end. Pre-drill two holes through the rails and into each arm. Apply glue and secure with 2″ #8 wood screws. 

 

 

If you want to stain or paint the frame, you would do so at this point. 

 

Step 5

Once the glue is fully dry, the frame is complete and its time to wrap the seat. The leather itself isn’t strong enough to hold much weight. Creating a sub-layer of cotton webbing will give the seat support. Wrap a length of webbing around the frame and staple to inside face of one top rail. Flip the webbing around the opposite rail and pull tightly as possible (an extra pair of hands comes in really handy at this point) and secure to the inside face. Space each strip of webbing 2-3/16″ apart, across the length of the top rails. 

 

 

 

 

With the webbing in place, drape the leather over the top of the bench.

 

 

 

Pull it tightly around the top rails, and staple to the inside face. Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut notches in the leather around the legs. 

 

 

 

That’s it! Move the bench in place and you’re ready to sit. 

 

 

 

I love the look of the raw maple and the wood plugs.

 

Before wrapping the”faux leather” around the frame, I added some decorative stitching. It makes the top look more finished, and actually gives the material added strength against stretching.

 

I’m digging the minimal look of my director’s bench in the entryway, but its so light and easy to pick up, I could easily move it anywhere in the house.

 

Pin the image below and save the idea for later!

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More DIY benches to build:

wood chevron bench

outdoor wood and concrete bench

corner bench

rustic X bench and dining table

tufted bench

 

 

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